One of the nicest little walks I took recently in Paris began on the tacky Rue de Clichy. If you want to ignore that scene, go up Rue Lepic towards Montmartre and you’ll find yourself in Parisian paradise just a block away from the madness of Pigalle and the Moulin Rouge.
Within that first block or three going up the hill are an amazing assortment of shops offering fine foods, herbs and teas, and other comestibles beyond compare. Some fine Asian eateries are also lined up here, and of course there are bakery display cases of glowing goodies demanding your attention as you walk by. It’s hard NOT to stop and buy everything along the way… but resistance is sometimes futile.
At your first intersection head left, again up the hill. Rue Lepic forks again, heading up or down – you want to go up towards the hilltop! In the intersection is a great place to eat authentic French cuisine, La Basilic.
The interior is a wonderful array of bric-a-brac dating back to Van Gogh’s residence in the neighborhood, and the rustic construction is quite amazing.
Past La Basilic on the right is the house Theo Van Gogh owned in Paris, and where he had his brother Vincent stay with him when in town. It was large, and of course had an art gallery full of Van Gogh originals way back then, but none were sold until he died.
Continuing up the hill towards Montmartre, the flavor of the neighborhood changes from shops and commercial establishments into residences and art galleries. You’ll see some amazing stuff ranging from ancient to modern along the way ~ keep looking in every window!
When you reach the top, you will be in the public square, and be able to see the towers of Sacre Coeur towering above you. Here is where hundreds of aspiring artists set up their easels daily and paint, paint, paint. Mostly copying the grand masters, a few take a more original approach and offer some unique canvases. Bargains are here to be found, from so-called sofa paintings to your own portrait created on the spot!
More casual observers populate the many bars and cafes around the area, and contemplate the goings on from the ease of a chair with a drink in hand.
From this square many little streets run here and there over the hilltop of Montmartre, and there are some grand views of Paris to enjoy. Of course Sacre Couer dominates the hilltop, and can be seen from most everywhere in Paris, but the cathedral deserves a story of it’s own.
If you’re still feeling adventurous, the Dali Museum is around the corner from the square, and there are quite a few nice walks to be enjoyed around the area before descending back down into Paris. Walking back is easy, via the funicular at the foot of the Sacre Couer which is open daily until midnight and costs very little to ride.