Art and Culture in the Jordaan

The Jordaan was build at the large expansion of Amsterdam in early 17th century, as a district for the working class and emigrants. The population increase during the next centuries was enormously, caused by the stream political refugees like protestant Fleming, Spanish and Portuguese Jews and French Huguenots who mainly settled in the Jordaan. It was a poor district with small houses and slums, every little room stuffed with families and lots of children. The entire area was one ghetto with open sewers, canals served for both transport and sewer, and no running water. Around 1900 there lived about 80 thousand people, nowadays about 20 thousand.

Rembrandt
The famous 17th century Dutch writer Joost van den Vondel and photographer Breitner lived in the Jordaan. Artists, like the painter Rembrandt van Rijn in his lesser successful period, also came living in the Jordaan because of the low rents. The house of Rembrandt was on the Rozengracht (Rose canal, still a real canal these days). His studio was on the Bloemgracht (Flower canal). The famous painter was buried in a poor mans grave in the Westerkerk (West church).

Monument Care
During the seventieth of the 20th century the city council had serious plans to mainly demolish big parts of the district and replace them for large ugly blocks of modern buildings. There where many protests against this idea. City protectors, such as Monument Care, where against the loss of the historical town and the people of the Jordaan feared for large rent increases. Thanks to this resistance the plan was modified, there came small-scale projects which would repair the neighborhood, without damaging its original character.
Strolling
A large renovation was started. By then the district was discovered by a new generation occupants: artists, students, and young entrepreneurs. The old inhabitants moved to other neighborhoods and cities like Almere. Partly by these new inhabitants the Jordaan has changed from a slum area to a district for artist, still living on low rent, and the rich who bought the very expensive renovated houses. Nowadays the Jordaan is compared to the rest of the town an oasis of peace with a labyrinth of narrow streets and little canals, nice for strolling around courtyards, art studios, and monumental buildings with stone tablets, old-fashioned ‘brown’ pubs, boutiques or galleries.

Markets
There are also some markets in this area. Saturdays you will find the Lindenmarkt (Lime market), a general market, on the Lindengracht (Lime canal) and a biological food market on the Noordermarkt (North market). Mondays you have a flea market at the Noordermarkt and a market on the Westerstraat (West street) with nice fabrics. On the Noordermarkt you can visit the Noorderkerk (North church), designed by Hendrick de Keyser in the 17th century.

Noorderkerk
Many people think that the Westerkerk (West church) on the Westermarkt is the main church of the Jordaan. It’s true that you can hear its carillon and see the beautiful Westertoren (West tower) everywhere in the neighborhood and that the Jordaanfestival is located on his square, but the church is actually located just outside the Jordaan. So the main church of the Jordaan is the Noorderkerk. The Noorderkerk was built in the northern part in 1620-1623 by Hendrick de Keyser and his son Pieter. The church is still in use as a Protestant church, and like the Westerkerk open to everyone, especially during concerts.

Art studios
Hundreds of artist discovered the Jordaan in the 70th because of the low rent of houses in these little streets. The lucky ones are renting a studio in one of these beautiful inner courtyards of the neighborhood. Every two years the artist organize a so called ‘open studio event’. During these days visitors can have a look in the ‘kitchens’ of the artist. There is also a permanent ornamental route called ‘Jewels in the Jordaan’. Past charming alleyways and picturesque canals it leads to gold- and silversmiths.

Courtyards
The Jordaan has a high concentration of hofjes (inner courtyards), beautiful yards with little houses, many of them with restored houses and peaceful gardens. These courtyards were build by rich people for older women; a kind of charity and protection. Beginning of the 70th most of these courtyards was in a very bad shape, like the rest of the neighborhood. After there restoration they were discovered by artist, students and still some older people with special privileges because of a church membership. Some of the courtyards are closed to the public, and only opened on special days called ‘open monuments days’. But if you do come across one of the entrances, and it is unlocked, most residents won’t mind if you sneak a quiet peek. During the summer some of these yards are opened on Sundays during free concerts called ‘hofjesconcerts’.

Stone tablets
Many houses in the Jordaan have a stone tablet, a stone sign that shows the profession or family sign of the inhabitants. For instance a butcher showed a pig and a tailor a pair of scissors, carved in a stone above the entry. During a walk it’s a pleasure to observe those beautiful, when renovated colorful, antique signs. The first stone tablets are made in the 16th century, when citizens were ordered to use these tablets instead of big wooden gables that obstructed the traffic in these narrow streets.
Museums
Most of the museums in the Jordaan are small. You have the Pianola museum with old mechanical pianos, a literature museum of Theo Thijssen, a houseboat museum, and a fluorescent museum called Electric Lady Land. Just on the boarder of the Jordaan you can find the Anne Frank House on the Prinsengracht (Prince canal).

Hotel Barbacan


Dorm style room accommodations and smaller rooms available.

In 25 years of travel, this is the worst hotel in which we’ve ever stayed. It was dirty, cramped, and in disarray. There is no elevator, our room was the size of a hamster cage, and the phone, one window, and one of the two naked bulb lamps were broken. The carpet was threadbare and stained, the sheets had holes, and our room overlooked an abandoned building, complete with debris, broken glass, and rotting vegetation. We fled after one horrendous night and felt like escaped POWs, except the Geneva Convention requires that POWs have more rights!

Don’t be fooled by the three-star rating or the "family hotel" hype. The only family this place evokes is the Adams Family. If the only room in the city is at Hotel Barbacan, you should fight the junkies for a park bench!

Hotel Monopole

Myself and a friend recently rented two single rooms in the ‘hotel’ Monopole, Amstel 60, Amsterdam, to the tune of €60 per night for four nights (€250 + city tax) on October 11th -14th.

My heart sank when we got a look at the first room; a small, dank place with twin cots, dirty marks on one wall, a tatty thin carpet, old fixtures and fittings and a unpleasant view of what appeared to be an industrial building with a grimy roof.

The second room three floors up a break- neck stairs into the attic, was similar to the first but icy cold and dull in the day time, with more dirty marks and a fist-sized hole in one wall. The single sheets which covered the matresses seemed clean but the dank duvets on top looked like they hadn’t been washed in several weeks; there was a dark brown cigarette burn hole in one. Having viewed the warm and inviting looking rooms on their website, my friend and I were quite upset about the arrangement. When I asked to be moved from the attic to another room, I was told that we had gotten a special offer and that ‘rooms in this part of Amsterdam generally go for €90 or more’.

We had to lug our own bags to our rooms. That night we discovered that the club behind (ironically called ‘Escape’ – at this stage I wanted to) had little to no sound-proofing and that it went on until 4.30am (bar Mondays when it shut its doors at 2am). Strangely, the hotel Monopole makes no mention of this or the bar/club right next door to them on their website.

On the third evening when we arrived back at the hotel, we found our towels hadn’t been changed, or rooms/ toilets cleaned or toilet rolls replaced. In fact the only thing touched and removed was the cups we had requested (much to their astonishment) the night before.

Some kind of hammering and building was going on in one of the rooms for much of the time we were there (daytime only).

My view of Amsterdam was sullied by the very poor accommodation and lax approach offered at the hotel Monopole. However, aside from the hotel, I did get to see beautiful Dutch architecture, ground-breaking painting, creative theater, layers of history and the wonderful buzz of such a diverse European city.

Maurya Organic Indian Lounge

I do not normally write restaurant reviews but was so appalled by Maurya; I feel the need to warn all. It wasn’t the food that appalled me (the food was rather lush) and it wasn’t the decor, which was to a certain extent authentic. It wasn’t even the service, which was slow, but hey if good company surrounds you, it tends to be less of a concern. NO, what I and my fellow diners we dismayed by was the bill. It was OUTRAGESOUS! If you deducted the alcohol and water off the bill and calculated the food only, we were charged 50 euros EACH for food alone. Tell me, how does one eat 50 Euros of Indian food? We are not talking a Michelin Star restaurant for goodness sake! On checking the bill, we discovered curious costs. I won’t go too much into detail but we were highly overcharged. There are extra costs such as spiced rice, 6 euros per person. (There were eight of us, which amounts to 48 euros for rice alone). There were a lot of other additional costs as well that are not stated on the menu or mentioned by the waiter.
Anyway at the end of it all we refused to pay the total amount because it was clear he was trying to rip us off. We asked him to deduct 50 euros, he refused and was extremely rude to us shouting and carrying on. (Very professional). We asked him to call the police because we were not paying the amount on the bill. He did, the police came (5 of them) and after hearing both sides of the story and reviewing the bill and the menu the police agreed with us and we paid the amount which we thought was fair. Be warned! At the Maurya, they are rip off merchants!

Randy Roy’s Red Light Walking Tour Amsterdam

This tour was highly recommended in BOOM magazine. Randy is a pretty cool guy! This tour focused on the humorous and contemporary stories of the red light district. He kept us entertained by showing us where Quentin Tarantino wrote Pulp Fiction. Eminem and Mike Tyson’s favorite coffeshop. We even saw the club with the darkroom floor that Jean Paul Gaultier passed out on (and woke up stuck to)!
We saw a lot of window prostitutes and learned about X-rated bookshops, live sex shows, magic mushrooms and smart shops. Warning: there was also some Amsterdam history on the tour.We had a lot of laughs and came away with a better understanding of not only the red light district but also the Dutch culture. Highly recommended!

Info:
The meeting point is in front of the Victoria Hotel across from Central Station at 8pm, and 10pm on Fridays & Saturdays.(Damrak and Prins Hendrik-kade). It lasts 90 minutes.

Resevations are recommended!

Wakeboard School Vinkeveen


Join our friends Gerard and Petra at Vinkeveen, a short drive outside of Amsterdam, to learn the ins and outs of wakeboarding, wakeskating, wakesurfing, waterskiing and monoskiing. Flyboarding is also possible but starting with a minimum of 4 persons.

Although their website has lots of action photos of the fun to be had, it’s all in Dutch. But don’t worry, email Gerard with your questions, in English, and he’ll be glad to help you out if needed.

Having been out on the lake at Vinkeveen myself with Gerard at the helm, I can say with certainty that this is going to be one of the best times you have on the water near Amsterdam. The location is very easy to reach. You just drive down the A2 direction Utrecht and take exit 4 Vinkeveen. You will find Wakeboardschool Vinkeveen at Wilgenhoek Harbor. Parking is free.


Write Gerard at: info@wakeboardschoolvinkeveen.nl or call him on his mobile at: +31 6 52001155.

Open from May thru September, or as weather permits in these times of global warming.

Info:

Address:

Jachthaven De Wilgenhoek

Groenlandsekade 9-13

3645BA Vinkeveen

Phone: 06-52001155

Aneka Rasa Indonesian Restaurant

The Aneka Rasa is an Indonesian restaurant on the Warmoesstraat in the heart of Amsterdam’s Red Light District. But don’t let that fact put you off your food, some of the best meals in Amsterdam are to be found in this area. Just two blocks from Centraal Station, or three from the Dam Square.

As there were two of us dining, we decided to order a rijstaffel “menu” and enjoyed it greatly for all it’s uniqueness, especially the variety of sauces in each of the many dishes.

We started off with their spring rolls, unusually and delightfully prepared with lime leaf and lemongrass, with bits of chicken and vegetables, they were deep fried to a nice crispiness without being drenched in oil. They were served with a delicious sate sauce.

As we sat in the dining room with our beers admiring the nice wood paneling, the main course arrived with two long heated metal trays down the middle of the table loaded with goodies to eat. There were at least a dozen dishes to choose from, the more memorable are listed below.

Hard boiled eggs, with a dark savoury sauce were in one dish. Another had skewers of chicken satay and a huge puddle of peanut sauce, quite nice and lots of it! There were large portions of rice, both coconut flavoured and stir-fried. A bowl held fresh green beans with a fine zesty sauce and other bits of vegetables and nuts stirred in with it. There was a portion of fried mackerel fish, swimming in it’s own sauce, but that was about the least favorite thing I had. The prawns were great however, with a red spicy pepper sauce, and when sprinkled with finely grated coconut, an amazing treat! A bowl of cabbage and carrots was swimming in some herbal sauce that left me cold, but it was in fact piping hot like all the rest of the dishes. Our most favorite that evening had to be the hot and spicy chicken pieces, with nice chunks of red peppers in its own unique sauce… so it was an evening of many sauces, all unique to say the least.

Afterwards our menu meal featured a dessert with coffee or tea, and fried bananas covered with powdered sugar, a fine way to end the meal. And these weren’t ordinary bananas either, they were the fine red fig variety I love so much when I’m in the tropics, or Amsterdam, and lucky enough to find then in the local market.

Our bill, including four beers, was 61.50 euros. Not bad considering we left the table filled with pleasure!

So, my hats off to the Aneka Rasa, with its great service, fine food, and convenient location.

A-Fusion

Over the last few years Amsterdam has seen a surge of new Asian restaurants, especially since the renovation of Chinatown. Likewise more fusion restaurants seem to be popping up as Dutch taste becomes accustomed to the more unusual, creative fare these kinds of restaurants offer. So it’s no surprise then that another new Asian fusion restaurant has opened on the Zeedijk.

A-Fusion is the descriptive name of this already popular eatery just steps away from the Nieuwmarkt. The intriguing menu and reasonable prices have tourists and locals alike dropping in for lunch and dinner. Their creative fusion of Asian flavors combines elements of Japanese, Chinese and Indonesian/Malaysian cuisines.

The sleek decor with warm woods and blue accents is offset with beautiful live orchids and lilies scattered about the room. The only strange thing is the projection TV on the wall playing Japanese commercials. This silent infotainment might seem dissonant, but it really did fit in with the modern Asian motif, and I’d take it over a football game with my meal anytime.

For appetizers we ordered a Hot and Sour soup (4 Euros), which came with a rich tasty broth and some very hot red chilies. If you don’t like it so hot, let them know or avoid eating those. My Seaweed Wrapped Sesame Chicken rolls were sublime, four for 3.75 Euros.

My main course of udon noodle soup had shitaki mushrooms, bok choy and was topped with chicken satay sticks with an excellent dipping sauce (8.50 Euros). On the menu it was actually a mixed satay, but they gladly substituted my preference. My friend had the Seafood Fried Rice which was served in a whole pineapple. This huge portion contained shrimp, squid and some of that crab-like substance the Japanese love. It was light and delicious but so filling, we couldn’t finish it.

I ordered a Coconut Bubble tea to see if it was like those Tea Shakers I’d had in Barcelona. So I was surprised when I discovered the “bubbles” were actually tapioca pearls. Good thing they served it with both an extra wide straw and a spoon. It was delicious, with good coconut flavor, not too sweet (they asked my preference) yet I had trouble tasting the tea. But that was the only fault I could find with this place on my first visit.

The service was very good, and I noticed the waiters constantly scanning the tables for anyone needing assistance. It almost made me feel like I wasn’t in Holland anymore. The price was right, with our bill coming to around 32 Euros for two with drinks.

A-Fusion is a very pleasurable experience where tasty surprises await adventurous diners.

Info:
Address:
Zeedijk 130
Amsterdam
Phone: 020-330-4068

Eat Mode Asian Fusion Kitchen

New in Amsterdam, and first in Chinatown the owners claim, is the Eat Mode Asian Fusion Kitchen.


The workers have to restock constantly
to keep the customers satisfied here on the Zeedijk.

Glad I discovered this little eatery on the Zeedijk in Amsterdam, right off the Nieuwmarkt. Fine food, cheap prices and nice ambience all combine to make this place a new favorite of mine in the Mokum. The menu consists of a variety of Asian specialities culled from Japanese, Chinese and Thai cuisine. A separate sushi menu is also available.

I ordered the chicken curry lo mein soup bowl, which was filled to the brim with a rich brown broth, chunks of chicken, potatoes, and chinese veggies. Thanks to such large portions, I was also completely filled to the brim when I finished eating it. My friend ordered the Udon soup with vegetables tempura, and it was also delicious. The crispy fried veggies contrasted well with the savory broth of the soup.

Chinese tea is free with your order. English and other types of tea as well as soft drinks are available. Nothing is expensive at this delightful place, with meals averaging around 6 Euros, topping out around 11 Euros for a prawn dish.

The ambience is nice, the soothing lounge music, quietly chatting diners, contrast with the view of the crowds scurrying by on the Zeedijk. Simple wood block tables and comfortable benches make for an enjoyable, relaxing experience. Please note there is no table service here. You must order at the counter and wait for your number to appear on the display.

Info:
Open daily from 11 am until midnight. The entire menu is available for take-out as well as eat-in.

Address:
Zeedijk 105-107
Amsterdam 1012 AV
Phone: 020 330 0806