Xaveria Hollander is still active, and operates Xaviera’s Bed and Breakfast in Amsterdam, the Netherlands. The author of “The Happy Hooker” will be glad to have you stay at her “Happy Hotel.”
Xaviera Hollander B&B
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Tag Archives: Amsterdam
Nationale Opera & Ballet
The Muziektheater (the Nationale Opera & Ballet) hosts major productions of opera, theater and ballet. Look for Shakespeare, classical operas, wonderful ballets like the Nutcracker.
Kalinka
Unfortunately it appears this restaurant is no longer in business…. 🙁
As we wandered around the Leidseplein, my friends from Spain were looking for something different to eat. So when they suggested we look into this Russian restaurant, I was psyched to try anything. And given the new American/Russian amity as evidenced by the Bush/Putin lovefest, it seemed like it was time to see what the Russians have to offer on the culinary scene these days. The menu looked way more inviting than a Texas barbecue, that’s for sure!
The once decadent, and now charming Czarist decor is inviting, with attractive pinstripe wallpaper and turn of the century lamps. It’s the kind of place, a few years ago, where you’d expect the Russian couple at the next table to be KGB agents discussing spy secrets. Of course today it would be the same couple, now with the Russian Mafia, talking about business secrets.
We started off with some Russian beers in half liter bottles, that were very hearty and full of flavor. Some of our appetizers were superb. The chicken soup in a creamy saffron base was outstanding! I ordered the fried potato shoes stuffed with mushrooms and cheese, served with a wonderfully rich cream sauce. Those two appetizers along with the constantly refilling bread basket could make a meal right there. But the fish soup didn’t measure up.
Lamb Tiblisi
After our second round of beers, the main course arrived. My friends had the Lamb Tiblisi and said it was excellent. I ordered the Chicken Kiev, which I figured would be a safe bet, but unfortunately it was the loser of the evening as it was dry and tough. It certainly didn’t have the freshness of the other dishes.
By the time we were on our third round of beers, the musical portion of the evening’s entertainment had arrived. A Russian duo consisting of male keyboardist and a very sexy platinum blond diva serenaded us with tunes like Besame (which of course my Spanish friends loved!), and other 80s hits. They were actually pretty good!
The bill came to 300 guilders for four, (no dessert) and considering that we each had appetizers and over a liter of beer, I’d say the prices were quite reasonable.
Korte Leidsedwarstraat 49a
Amsterdam 1017
Phone: 020
Rokerij
Now permanently closed by the City of Amsterdam, all three locations are gone. This review is for historical purposes only.
I tried to visit the Rokerij during the 2002 Cannabis Cup, and found it next to impossible to find a seat. This place is very popular, thanks to the dj spinning cool tunes, really good smoke and a nice large room in the back to chill and be seen by the hip set.
The crowd during the cup seemed to be an interesting blend of Americans, other foreigners and Dutch locals. If I could’ve found a seat perhaps I could tell you more. I even returned the day after the cup ended, and still found no place to sit and would’ve waited, but the thick cigarette smoke drove me out.
There are two other Rokerijs open now. One across from Central Station, the other at Amstel 8. All had nice interiors.
The Rookies
I had a chance to pop in here during the Cannabis Cup. Usually when I spot a pool table in a coffeeshop, I turn around and head elsewhere, but at The Rookies, it’s more of an after thought, rather than the primary focus of activity.
I think The Rookies works because it’s got a more open feel than most narrow, cramped coffeeshops. You can sit most anywhere in the room and observe everything going on. I chose to sit by the pool table, which turned out to be unwise as I was getting a lot of ass in my face when they weren’t taking aim at it with the backend of a pool cue. Fortunately this was noticed by one of the staff who rushed over and moved around a few tables to create more room for those shooting pool.
I enjoyed the tunes playing on their superior sound system. A little Van Morrison and other upbeat music give the place a lot of character, and set the happy tone here. While it’s not exactly my cup of tea, lots of young people like this cheery place.
Info:
Address:
Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 145-147
Amsterdam
Jolly Joker
I’ve been to Amsterdam twice in the last 3 years. Tried many coffeeshops around the city. This my favorite coffeeshop by far. Not because of the quality weed, but because of the nice people working there. The weed was good also, but not the absolute best in the city. It has a laid-back atmosphere with good music and great hot chocolate. Free use of the bongs, which they will clean right before you use it. Backgammon and chess games available. More of an upscale interior with nice woodwork and brass finishes. Located at the edge of the Red light district near the Nuiewmarket, I think. Guido Rocks!
Amnesia
This is a very pleasant Coffeeshop on the Herengracht with outdoor seating. It’s one of the few places in town that specializes in organically grown weed. I enjoyed the comfortable interior with nice cushions and pillows, hand painted tables by Zoe, and mellow music that set the mood.
Update: I visited the Amnesia again for one of their Vaporizer Parties. It was packed full of happy people toking up the clean vapors from two vaporizers kept going thanks to the Amnesia and the hard-working, knowledgeable folks from the Cannabis College.
Update: I visited the Amnesia again for one of their Vaporizer Parties. It was packed full of happy people toking up the clean vapors from two vaporizers kept going thanks to the Amnesia and the hard-working, knowledgeable folks from the Cannabis College.
The party was livened up by a guy outside playing the saw. Yes, the saw. It sounded real eerie, like a theramin or a sci-fi soundtrack. Inside a DJ was spinning mellow house music while a very good trumpet player was layin’ down some Miles Davis’ riffs which really made that house music fly with the jazz adding the needed melody.
Amnesia was also featuring it’s new fountain style drinks, the EXACT same kind we used to get back in the ol’ soda fountain daze in New York. We’re talkin’ da kine milkshakes, ice cream sodas, vanilla cokes, lime rickeys, malteds (I couldn’t resist a chocolate malt that took me waaay back), and most unusual for Amsterdam, the famous NYC egg cream!
Amnesia was also featuring it’s new fountain style drinks, the EXACT same kind we used to get back in the ol’ soda fountain daze in New York. We’re talkin’ da kine milkshakes, ice cream sodas, vanilla cokes, lime rickeys, malteds (I couldn’t resist a chocolate malt that took me waaay back), and most unusual for Amsterdam, the famous NYC egg cream!
What more could you want for the raving munchies, but a cool fountain drink to set it right. The fountain drinks alone will make me a regular there.
Smokewise the Amnesia has a good selection of organically grown pot including Bio Sage and Amnesia Haze. But the most impressive smoke I tried there was the King Hassan Supreme hashish (fresh, with an incredibly good taste), at 11 Euros a gram and their Ice-o-lator hash (18 Euros a gram – the most expensive smoke in the house). Skip the Manali (tastes like crap).
So sit back, have a great drink, a good smoke, and dig the music at the Amnesia!
Address:
Herengracht 133
Amsterdam 1015 BG
Phone: 020-427 7874
Randy Roy’s Redlight Tours
We read about the tour in the Lonely Planet and it was really worth taking!
Hotel Monopole
Myself and a friend recently rented two single rooms in the ‘hotel’ Monopole, Amstel 60, Amsterdam, to the tune of €60 per night for four nights (€250 + city tax) on October 11th -14th.
My heart sank when we got a look at the first room; a small, dank place with twin cots, dirty marks on one wall, a tatty thin carpet, old fixtures and fittings and a unpleasant view of what appeared to be an industrial building with a grimy roof.
The second room three floors up a break- neck stairs into the attic, was similar to the first but icy cold and dull in the day time, with more dirty marks and a fist-sized hole in one wall. The single sheets which covered the matresses seemed clean but the dank duvets on top looked like they hadn’t been washed in several weeks; there was a dark brown cigarette burn hole in one. Having viewed the warm and inviting looking rooms on their website, my friend and I were quite upset about the arrangement. When I asked to be moved from the attic to another room, I was told that we had gotten a special offer and that ‘rooms in this part of Amsterdam generally go for €90 or more’.
We had to lug our own bags to our rooms. That night we discovered that the club behind (ironically called ‘Escape’ – at this stage I wanted to) had little to no sound-proofing and that it went on until 4.30am (bar Mondays when it shut its doors at 2am). Strangely, the hotel Monopole makes no mention of this or the bar/club right next door to them on their website.
On the third evening when we arrived back at the hotel, we found our towels hadn’t been changed, or rooms/ toilets cleaned or toilet rolls replaced. In fact the only thing touched and removed was the cups we had requested (much to their astonishment) the night before.
Some kind of hammering and building was going on in one of the rooms for much of the time we were there (daytime only).
My view of Amsterdam was sullied by the very poor accommodation and lax approach offered at the hotel Monopole. However, aside from the hotel, I did get to see beautiful Dutch architecture, ground-breaking painting, creative theater, layers of history and the wonderful buzz of such a diverse European city.
Art and Culture in the Jordaan
The Jordaan was build at the large expansion of Amsterdam in early 17th century, as a district for the working class and emigrants. The population increase during the next centuries was enormously, caused by the stream political refugees like protestant Fleming, Spanish and Portuguese Jews and French Huguenots who mainly settled in the Jordaan. It was a poor district with small houses and slums, every little room stuffed with families and lots of children. The entire area was one ghetto with open sewers, canals served for both transport and sewer, and no running water. Around 1900 there lived about 80 thousand people, nowadays about 20 thousand.
Rembrandt
The famous 17th century Dutch writer Joost van den Vondel and photographer Breitner lived in the Jordaan. Artists, like the painter Rembrandt van Rijn in his lesser successful period, also came living in the Jordaan because of the low rents. The house of Rembrandt was on the Rozengracht (Rose canal, still a real canal these days). His studio was on the Bloemgracht (Flower canal). The famous painter was buried in a poor mans grave in the Westerkerk (West church).
The famous 17th century Dutch writer Joost van den Vondel and photographer Breitner lived in the Jordaan. Artists, like the painter Rembrandt van Rijn in his lesser successful period, also came living in the Jordaan because of the low rents. The house of Rembrandt was on the Rozengracht (Rose canal, still a real canal these days). His studio was on the Bloemgracht (Flower canal). The famous painter was buried in a poor mans grave in the Westerkerk (West church).
Monument Care
During the seventieth of the 20th century the city council had serious plans to mainly demolish big parts of the district and replace them for large ugly blocks of modern buildings. There where many protests against this idea. City protectors, such as Monument Care, where against the loss of the historical town and the people of the Jordaan feared for large rent increases. Thanks to this resistance the plan was modified, there came small-scale projects which would repair the neighborhood, without damaging its original character.
Strolling
A large renovation was started. By then the district was discovered by a new generation occupants: artists, students, and young entrepreneurs. The old inhabitants moved to other neighborhoods and cities like Almere. Partly by these new inhabitants the Jordaan has changed from a slum area to a district for artist, still living on low rent, and the rich who bought the very expensive renovated houses. Nowadays the Jordaan is compared to the rest of the town an oasis of peace with a labyrinth of narrow streets and little canals, nice for strolling around courtyards, art studios, and monumental buildings with stone tablets, old-fashioned ‘brown’ pubs, boutiques or galleries.
Markets
There are also some markets in this area. Saturdays you will find the Lindenmarkt (Lime market), a general market, on the Lindengracht (Lime canal) and a biological food market on the Noordermarkt (North market). Mondays you have a flea market at the Noordermarkt and a market on the Westerstraat (West street) with nice fabrics. On the Noordermarkt you can visit the Noorderkerk (North church), designed by Hendrick de Keyser in the 17th century.
Noorderkerk
Many people think that the Westerkerk (West church) on the Westermarkt is the main church of the Jordaan. It’s true that you can hear its carillon and see the beautiful Westertoren (West tower) everywhere in the neighborhood and that the Jordaanfestival is located on his square, but the church is actually located just outside the Jordaan. So the main church of the Jordaan is the Noorderkerk. The Noorderkerk was built in the northern part in 1620-1623 by Hendrick de Keyser and his son Pieter. The church is still in use as a Protestant church, and like the Westerkerk open to everyone, especially during concerts.
Many people think that the Westerkerk (West church) on the Westermarkt is the main church of the Jordaan. It’s true that you can hear its carillon and see the beautiful Westertoren (West tower) everywhere in the neighborhood and that the Jordaanfestival is located on his square, but the church is actually located just outside the Jordaan. So the main church of the Jordaan is the Noorderkerk. The Noorderkerk was built in the northern part in 1620-1623 by Hendrick de Keyser and his son Pieter. The church is still in use as a Protestant church, and like the Westerkerk open to everyone, especially during concerts.
Art studios
Hundreds of artist discovered the Jordaan in the 70th because of the low rent of houses in these little streets. The lucky ones are renting a studio in one of these beautiful inner courtyards of the neighborhood. Every two years the artist organize a so called ‘open studio event’. During these days visitors can have a look in the ‘kitchens’ of the artist. There is also a permanent ornamental route called ‘Jewels in the Jordaan’. Past charming alleyways and picturesque canals it leads to gold- and silversmiths.
Hundreds of artist discovered the Jordaan in the 70th because of the low rent of houses in these little streets. The lucky ones are renting a studio in one of these beautiful inner courtyards of the neighborhood. Every two years the artist organize a so called ‘open studio event’. During these days visitors can have a look in the ‘kitchens’ of the artist. There is also a permanent ornamental route called ‘Jewels in the Jordaan’. Past charming alleyways and picturesque canals it leads to gold- and silversmiths.
Courtyards
The Jordaan has a high concentration of hofjes (inner courtyards), beautiful yards with little houses, many of them with restored houses and peaceful gardens. These courtyards were build by rich people for older women; a kind of charity and protection. Beginning of the 70th most of these courtyards was in a very bad shape, like the rest of the neighborhood. After there restoration they were discovered by artist, students and still some older people with special privileges because of a church membership. Some of the courtyards are closed to the public, and only opened on special days called ‘open monuments days’. But if you do come across one of the entrances, and it is unlocked, most residents won’t mind if you sneak a quiet peek. During the summer some of these yards are opened on Sundays during free concerts called ‘hofjesconcerts’.
The Jordaan has a high concentration of hofjes (inner courtyards), beautiful yards with little houses, many of them with restored houses and peaceful gardens. These courtyards were build by rich people for older women; a kind of charity and protection. Beginning of the 70th most of these courtyards was in a very bad shape, like the rest of the neighborhood. After there restoration they were discovered by artist, students and still some older people with special privileges because of a church membership. Some of the courtyards are closed to the public, and only opened on special days called ‘open monuments days’. But if you do come across one of the entrances, and it is unlocked, most residents won’t mind if you sneak a quiet peek. During the summer some of these yards are opened on Sundays during free concerts called ‘hofjesconcerts’.
Stone tablets
Many houses in the Jordaan have a stone tablet, a stone sign that shows the profession or family sign of the inhabitants. For instance a butcher showed a pig and a tailor a pair of scissors, carved in a stone above the entry. During a walk it’s a pleasure to observe those beautiful, when renovated colorful, antique signs. The first stone tablets are made in the 16th century, when citizens were ordered to use these tablets instead of big wooden gables that obstructed the traffic in these narrow streets.
Many houses in the Jordaan have a stone tablet, a stone sign that shows the profession or family sign of the inhabitants. For instance a butcher showed a pig and a tailor a pair of scissors, carved in a stone above the entry. During a walk it’s a pleasure to observe those beautiful, when renovated colorful, antique signs. The first stone tablets are made in the 16th century, when citizens were ordered to use these tablets instead of big wooden gables that obstructed the traffic in these narrow streets.
Museums
Most of the museums in the Jordaan are small. You have the Pianola museum with old mechanical pianos, a literature museum of Theo Thijssen, a houseboat museum, and a fluorescent museum called Electric Lady Land. Just on the boarder of the Jordaan you can find the Anne Frank House on the Prinsengracht (Prince canal).
Most of the museums in the Jordaan are small. You have the Pianola museum with old mechanical pianos, a literature museum of Theo Thijssen, a houseboat museum, and a fluorescent museum called Electric Lady Land. Just on the boarder of the Jordaan you can find the Anne Frank House on the Prinsengracht (Prince canal).