Memories of India

After spending an afternoon exploring Amsterdam we decided to find someplace nice to eat. Something different.

Strolling down the Reguliersdwaarstraat from the Rembrandplein, we came across the stylishly modern Memories of India, which I gather is a chain from Great Britain. The menu outside offered a tempting array of traditional Indian specialties, and a few Balti curries. Deciding to eat here was definitely not a mistake, and everything from the appetizer to the main course was presented to us by our smilingly efficient Indian waiter.

Our appetizer of fried fish with a spicy dipping sauce was quite tasty. Despite the many tiny bones we enjoyed the crispiness. A small salad was also served along with the appetizer.

For entrees we chose Prawns Bhuna and Chicken Korma. The Korma was made with chunks of chicken in a sauce consisting of cream, ground nuts, butter, herbs and spices. It was so rich and thick that it was seductively addictive. Prawns Bhuna proved to be the perfect counterpoint, with large shrimps simmered in a hotly spiced stew of tomatoes, onions, herbs and spices. The garlic naan we ordered worked quite well at sopping up all the amazing sauces that came with our meal.

Lingering over dinner was really enjoyable, with a fresh breeze coming through the open front door to carry away cigarette smoke. The restaurant has a patio dining area in the back, and the whole place is decorated in a very modern style, (hardly discernable as Indian) with large modern art canvases, and Roman-style columns topped with metal-work palm trees scattered about. There are a few stone carvings of elephants and other Indian motifs on the walls to help remind you that yes, indeed, you are in an Indian restaurant. As if you will need a reminder after eating the food!

Memories of India is a nice place, with great food at a reasonable price – our entire meal with drinks was under 100 guilders. Most enjoyable indeed!

Dance Valley

Entrance to Dance Valley

At my first trip to Dance Valley years ago I was impressed by the upbeat energy of the music and the dancers. Back then about 35,000 people attended the Sparnwoude location, and there was lots of space to walk, sit, even get away from the larger groups who tended to hang out under the tents.

Pack ’em In!

The venue facilities remain the same, but the sold out event now hosts 100,000 people in the same space, with pretty much the same tents, and a few more vendors. With that many attending, it was almost impossible to find a place to sit, much less get away from the crowd. Just getting from one area to another became a huge challenge. At one point we tried to cross a bridge where there seemed to be two seas of people faced off in the middle, with no one budging. Some people were climbing the fences on each side of the bridge and walking on the outer edge to get by the impasse.

Evidently, we escaped from Dance Valley just in time because some 90,000 people were stuck for up to three hours in the pouring rain. Instead of the promised 130 buses, the management only provided 30 to shuttle everyone back to Amsterdam.

What fun it is to wait in line!

By far the biggest problem was WAY too many people. I guess they just have to pack as many bodies into the same space as they can profitably fit. What results is something any sardine will relate to, being packed into long queues for everything, especially a desperately needed drink after the 3 kilometer walk from the bus stop to the front gate.

Pushing and shoving was the rule as you tried to squeeze your way to any service counter to order something from the very sparse menus. Lots of words and elbows were flying in the resulting melees. Fortunately I didn’t see any outright fights, although it wouldn’t surprise me if there were some.


Did this detract from the dance music?

You betcha. I spent more time walking around or waiting in lines than actually listening to music or dancing. Finding out what was where, became a futile exercise, with no maps posted anywhere on the entire site. Of course, you could buy a plastic coated program to hang around your neck for 10 guilders, but why should that be necessary just to find out who’s playing where?


But how was the music?

Well, I found myself after the third tent saying “isn’t that the same music we heard in the last three tents?” and when I passed by that same tent again I asked “isn’t that the same TUNE we heard when we were here two hours ago?”. Yes, of course it is! With very minor tempo variations, the sound eminating from almost all the tents was exactly the same. The same uncreative, uninspired, “what dial should I move next?”, sound. Sometimes I guess the DJ would get distracted and the same exact sound would repeat itself for maybe a minute or longer.

I could even say it was exactly the same music I heard three years ago in Dance Valley, but that wouldn’t be correct, as back then, there was MORE variety. Or perhaps the music just sounded fresher back then. I noticed that the crowd seemed a bit older than my last visit to Dance Valley. Perhaps three years older. Same music, same scene, same people, just far more of them, and far more hassles.

If Orbital hadn’t shown up at the end to close the show, there would’ve been NO variation that I could tell in the music. That set, while breaking no new ground, at least provided a glimpse of what was once a very exciting, creative music scene.


The Day the Music Died

So what is it with Dance Valley, that attracts such a large crowd? Is it just a party you can’t miss, or has it become so overcommercialized that profits outweigh substance? What does it tell us about the masses who go to these venues to be queued up, searched, squeezed, drugged, tobacco fumed, and to maybe dance a bit? I often wondered as I looked into the faces of these “ravers” what was going on behind those extacied eyes.

The monotonous beat of the drums pounding in their heads, the piledriving metallic sound echoing off the hills, sound so industrial, so devoid of human feeling and voice, so devoid of beauty. Is this the low spark of high heeled ravers?

Once upon a time in a field in Bethel, New York, five times as many people managed to get it on together, listen to beautiful music, and become one huge community. Now as I reflect upon where we have come from, and where we are now, I wonder if we have lost not just our innocence, but our very humanity. We now release our pent up frustrations in an orgy of repetitive pounding dullness.


“I can’t hear you!”

The biggest activity besides queing up and dancing seemed to be calling on cellphones. I saw so many people standing in front of huge blaring speakers trying to communicate to someone on the other end of their phone. Were they trying to impress their friends who couldn’t make it? Find someone they lost in the crowd? What was so important that you had to scream into a phone at the top of your lungs?


Trash anyone?

Then there’s the sea of plastic and paper that became our carpet at Dance Valley. What a waste of resources. I know these huge events generate tons of trash, and it’s hard to control the flow. But the attitude in Holland seems to be, just let it fall, and we’ll clean it up later for you. Just enjoy the party and don’t worry. Yeah, right. The mess at Sparnwoude gives Queen’s Day a run for it’s money. Oh wait, Queen’s Day is FREE! You paid dearly to get into Dance Valley, so you’d think the least they could do would be to provide some trash bins! Yeah there were a few small plastic ones, maybe a dozen. How about 30 or 40 of those huge metal bins strategically placed around, and big signs saying (in Dutch of course) “throw it here!”? Nope, let’s keep spoiling these kids, who in their naivete think it’s ok to throw their litter everywhere. Meanwhile you wade through ankle deep trash that recalls some dump on the outskirts of NYC. Not a pleasant sight, thank you.


Oh, Yummy!

Vendors were serving such “innovative fare” as hamburgers, ham and cheese sandwiches and of course lots of beer. I found that quite a contrast to the other alternative booths offering massage, alpha state sounds with flashing glasses, etc. Why not some alternative food and beverage choices??? Perhaps they tried these and found that the ravers aren’t into that type of food. Fine.

This scene is far different from the Roskilde and Lowlands festivals which attract similar if even larger crowds. First, the music in those places at least has some variety! And they both encourage the use of trash bins and have alternative food and drinks available. Does the Dance Valley management have no conscience?


The Long March!

Now about that long, long walk to the gate… why? The old entrance was right by the bus stop, why was it moved? Why make everyone walk around the entire venue, just to get in? This defies logic, and I’d sure like to find some reason that makes sense. And taxis were blocked several kilometers from there, forcing people to walk much further!

Love and Trash. Get it on!


Conclusion

The Dance Valley website says “Come and witness the future of dance music”. If this is it, it’s pretty sad. Yet most of the people there seemed to be having a great time on what turned out to be a beautiful day! In fact they were the best part of the show, as usual, in their colorful rave fashions. So who am I to complain? I must admit, I’m probably too old for this scene. Or too wise.

My advice is that if you want a crowded, uninspired, huge, overblown, overpriced party, Dance Valley is the place to be. If you’ve finally outgrown this scene, bravo to you! You’re ready to discover some new music, and there are plenty of other places to go to find it…

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Lana-Thai Restaurant

Permanently Closed

No longer considered the bad neighborhood of Amsterdam, the Red Light District is filled with amazing treasures like Lana-Thai, on the Warmoesstraat. Located just a few minutes walk from Central Station, it’s now a pleasure to stroll through the narrow twisting alleyways which have been recently redone with all-new brick sidewalks and cobblestone streets. The lampposts in the area are all fixed up and brightly lit, and the throngs of happy tourists wandering around sure make this an interesting area to explore, for tourists and old-timers alike.

To celebrate a special occasion my friend and I sought out some authentic Thai food, spicy enough to burn a lingering summer cold right out of me. I wasn’t disappointed at all.

Entering Lana-Thai, you pass through a dining room with low tables and cushions, decorated in a rather decadent Oriental theme, and extravagantly comfortable-looking; although I prefer a chair with a back! In the restaurant’s mid-section there is a bar and service area, with several altars to Buddha, etc. Stairs lead below to a dining room, but the most-used room seems to be the dining area in the back, which opens up onto Amsterdam’s inner harbor, with a great view of the canal boats loading and unloading, and the Damrak, which leads from Central Station to the Dam Square.

The theme is again, opulent Oriental, with beautiful works of art, comfy chairs, and tables set with crystal and candles. My companion was bemused by the dozens of topless Thai beauties in the paintings on the wall. No doubt an immodest concession to the notorious activities of the Red Light District or perhaps Bangkok?

The menu is to say the least, quite extensive and filled with not just the usual Pad Thai and Red Curries. After going over the menu for what seemed like hours, we finally decided upon appetizers. I chose Kay Haw Baiteau (f 13.75), morsels of chicken cooked in bamboo leaves and presented on a plate of salad with vegetables cut into a delightfully decorative arrangement. After unwrapping the chicken, and dipping it into the spicy, sweet and salty sauce and popping it into my mouth I knew I was in Thai food heaven. We also ordered Yam Woon Sen (f 17.95), an amazing salad both warm and cold, with glass noodles, vegetables and Prawns. Absolutely delightful.

The soup was a difficult decision, with so many offerings, at what seemed to be high prices for small bowls of soup (ranging from f17 to f19 a bowl). We decided on the Potek (f 19.25), which was a great choice, being a mélange of seafood including Prawns, Scallops, and fish – in the best broth I’ve ever had – spicy to the max and flavored intensely with those traditional Thai offerings of galanga, lemon grass and fresh coriander leaves. When the top of my head starts sweating, I know it’s almost hot enough for a Thai person.

After these few tastes we were in awe, and wondering how they could top the appetizers and soup. I can’t remember how many times we’ve gone to a new place, had a great appetizer and mediocre soup followed by a dreadful main course! So imagine my surprise when the main course turned out to be even better than what we’d had so far!

I had ordered the Pla Saam Rod (f 37.75), and was amazed at the whole fried fish presented on a platter with decorative veggies, not quite swimming, but generously covered with another wonderful Thai sauce. My friend had the Gaeng Ped Koong (f 45.00), large Prawns in a Panang-style coconut-milk sauce curry with an assortment of Thai vegetables. A large bowl of freshly made jasmine rice filled the table with food. And what a feast it was!

The house red wine was a great accompaniment to the food (a carafe was f 17.50). However, charging f 3.50 apiece for glasses of tap water and putting it on the bill as Spa Rood is a disappointment. If you don’t smoke, be sure to tell the waitress to seat you in the section away from the smokers, or at one of the windows on the canal side for fresh air. A special toast to the Australian blokes who kindly put out their cigarettes after noticing our discomfort and dismay as well as inability to taste the delicious food! Would Dutch diners have favored us so?

Lana-Thai is a delightful restaurant, with good service and excellent food. A bit higher-priced than some others, but not unreasonable considering the quality of the food. And that’s the bottom line, excellent food and a wonderfully exotic ambiance.

Amsterdam
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Spaarnwoud Recreation Area

Outside Amsterdam, this is the home of Dance Valley and other huge dance parties – this place cannot handle 100,000 or more partygoers at once. Typically oversold, avoid this place like the plague unless you know the event is hip. Obviously the management has no concerns for you, your safety, or your comfort, it’s just a huge commercial venue for rip-off promoters.

Velsen

Park Cafe-Restaurant

This is the Hotel Arena’s cafe and restaurant on the Oosterpark. They say “located in the Oosterpark, in a vibrant neighbourhood in Amsterdam Oost. The cafe-restaurant is divided into a laid-back lounge, a cosy bistro and a restaurant with table linens. The large terrace is practically in the Oosterpark, but is every bit as comfortable as it is inside. At Park cafe-restaurant the menu focuses on vegetables, with full flavours, bright colours and exiting preparations. We cook along with the seasons and use plenty of fresh herbs, that if at all possible go right from our own herb garden to your plate.”

Westerkerk

This fabulous Renaissance cathedral along the beautiful Princengracht is often used for live performances. The tower is the tallest in Amsterdam at 85 meters (272 ft.). There are tours (f 5) up the tower, but they no longer go all the way to the top (thankfully!). Yet the views are outstanding!

New York Pizza

A chain of NINE shops now. Once upon a time this was a refuge where you could find a decent slice of pizza in Amsterdam. Unfortunately like many Dutch establishments, they keep pizza in display cases, sometimes for hours before you happen to come along. Yes, they reheat it, and it can be a decent bite if you’re desperate. But why settle for something that’s been sitting out for who knows how long, when you can get it fresh and hot (and much better) in almost any Italian restaurant in Amsterdam for just a few guilders more.

Who am I to criticize? Only a native New Yawker (or as I call it, “New Amsterdam”), who knows good pizza when I see it and especially when I taste it! So any place that’s going to call itself “New York Pizza” had better live up to the reputation, and unfortunately when it comes to freshness, this place just doesn’t measure up. Perhaps they should call it Heart Burn City Pizza.

Me Naam Naan

There are so many Thai restaurants in Amsterdam, it’s difficult to keep track of them all. But here’s one you won’t soon forget, Me Naam Naan, located just off the Nieuwemarkt. A friend recommended this place, and I’m glad she did. It seems the Dutch have been keeping this little gem a secret.

We were very fortunate that we arrived earlier because all the other tables were already booked, and our whole meal was punctuated by new arrivals being told there were no tables available. Most of the customers, who were Dutch seemed to know this place fills up fast, and were consequently unperturbed.

I love Thai food having spent a few months there back in the 80s. And the more authentic the better. This means making your own curry pastes and using fresh ingredients, not dried. This place is not only authentic, but better than any I’ve found in Amsterdam.

The true test of a good Thai restaurant is how well they excute the most common dishes, like Tom Yam Koong (Shrimp soup with lemongrass) Pad Thai (rice noodles) and Red Curry. Well this place does these standards so well, I could find no fault. In fact I was amazed to discover they could be done like this. I guess I’m jaded since so many Thai places adulterate these fine dishes with canned pastes or tomato ketchup. Not here. The food is refined, the service was good (suprise!) and the waiters were quite the exotic vision dressed up in traditional, yet elegant Thai fashions. And best of all the price was quite reasonable for such quality food and service.

It seems the owners of this restaurant also own the little Thai market across the street which has a very good selection of authentic Thai ingredients including a varied assortment of those very same homemade curry pastes (my favorite is Penang). Don’t miss out on the restaurant, as it’s a true find!

Get there early or the place will be full. No reservations accepted, so it’s first come, first served.

North Sea Jazz Festival

Unlike other popular forms of music, Jazz seems to cut across all boundaries, attracting fans without age, race or class distinctions. This was evident from the diverse and enormous crowd that showed up for the 26th North Sea Jazz Festival. The two traits this seemingly unrelated mass of humanity share is a discerning taste in music and a certain knowing twinkle in their eyes, perhaps reflecting some kind of inner at-tune-ment with the essence of jazz.

At the North Sea Jazz Festival, the audience is indeed part of the show. And the lineup of world class jazz, blues, rock, fusion musicians is unmatched anywhere. Friday’s the big opening night and usually showcases the biggest talents. We were not disappointed by the line-up which included George Benson, Herbie Hancock and Van Morrison to name a few.

However the highlight of the evening (for me) was the brilliant set by The Art of Four in the smaller Jan Steenzaal. Featuring Donald Harrison on sax, James Williams on piano, Ron Carter on bass and Billy Cobham tearing up the drums. These veterans showed their stuff on such great tunes as “Alter Ego”, which combined simultaneous tempo and key changes which “altered” the mood time and again.

Herbie Hancock’s Electric Group even included a DJ, which kept the music hopping while a psychedelic light show played from a computer. Herbie noted that certain sounds could be coming from electronic keyboards, a computer, sampled sounds or a vinyl record. His cacophonic yet joyful music made it pointless to try to discern the origin of each note.

George Benson, as always the consummate performer, played many of his hits including Give Me The Night and Turn Your Love Around. I’ve always admired George, not just as a great jazz guitarist, but also as a fine, yet humble person with such a strong belief in the human spirit that clearly permeates his art. He and his music always provide an uplifting experience, and this was certainly the case at the festival.

The number of food and merchandising booths at the festival is amazing. From nasi to tacos, drums to saxophones it seemed like anything remotely related to jazz was available for sale. I was enticed by some souvenirs of the event, and I must commend the management for keeping the vendor scene cool and not a sour note.

Originall held in Amsterdam many years ago, it went to a venue in Den Haag, which quickly became overcrowded. Now the event is held in Rotterdam at the Ahoy, a massive complex.