Art and Culture in the Jordaan

The Jordaan was build at the large expansion of Amsterdam in early 17th century, as a district for the working class and emigrants. The population increase during the next centuries was enormously, caused by the stream political refugees like protestant Fleming, Spanish and Portuguese Jews and French Huguenots who mainly settled in the Jordaan. It was a poor district with small houses and slums, every little room stuffed with families and lots of children. The entire area was one ghetto with open sewers, canals served for both transport and sewer, and no running water. Around 1900 there lived about 80 thousand people, nowadays about 20 thousand.

Rembrandt
The famous 17th century Dutch writer Joost van den Vondel and photographer Breitner lived in the Jordaan. Artists, like the painter Rembrandt van Rijn in his lesser successful period, also came living in the Jordaan because of the low rents. The house of Rembrandt was on the Rozengracht (Rose canal, still a real canal these days). His studio was on the Bloemgracht (Flower canal). The famous painter was buried in a poor mans grave in the Westerkerk (West church).

Monument Care
During the seventieth of the 20th century the city council had serious plans to mainly demolish big parts of the district and replace them for large ugly blocks of modern buildings. There where many protests against this idea. City protectors, such as Monument Care, where against the loss of the historical town and the people of the Jordaan feared for large rent increases. Thanks to this resistance the plan was modified, there came small-scale projects which would repair the neighborhood, without damaging its original character.
Strolling
A large renovation was started. By then the district was discovered by a new generation occupants: artists, students, and young entrepreneurs. The old inhabitants moved to other neighborhoods and cities like Almere. Partly by these new inhabitants the Jordaan has changed from a slum area to a district for artist, still living on low rent, and the rich who bought the very expensive renovated houses. Nowadays the Jordaan is compared to the rest of the town an oasis of peace with a labyrinth of narrow streets and little canals, nice for strolling around courtyards, art studios, and monumental buildings with stone tablets, old-fashioned ‘brown’ pubs, boutiques or galleries.

Markets
There are also some markets in this area. Saturdays you will find the Lindenmarkt (Lime market), a general market, on the Lindengracht (Lime canal) and a biological food market on the Noordermarkt (North market). Mondays you have a flea market at the Noordermarkt and a market on the Westerstraat (West street) with nice fabrics. On the Noordermarkt you can visit the Noorderkerk (North church), designed by Hendrick de Keyser in the 17th century.

Noorderkerk
Many people think that the Westerkerk (West church) on the Westermarkt is the main church of the Jordaan. It’s true that you can hear its carillon and see the beautiful Westertoren (West tower) everywhere in the neighborhood and that the Jordaanfestival is located on his square, but the church is actually located just outside the Jordaan. So the main church of the Jordaan is the Noorderkerk. The Noorderkerk was built in the northern part in 1620-1623 by Hendrick de Keyser and his son Pieter. The church is still in use as a Protestant church, and like the Westerkerk open to everyone, especially during concerts.

Art studios
Hundreds of artist discovered the Jordaan in the 70th because of the low rent of houses in these little streets. The lucky ones are renting a studio in one of these beautiful inner courtyards of the neighborhood. Every two years the artist organize a so called ‘open studio event’. During these days visitors can have a look in the ‘kitchens’ of the artist. There is also a permanent ornamental route called ‘Jewels in the Jordaan’. Past charming alleyways and picturesque canals it leads to gold- and silversmiths.

Courtyards
The Jordaan has a high concentration of hofjes (inner courtyards), beautiful yards with little houses, many of them with restored houses and peaceful gardens. These courtyards were build by rich people for older women; a kind of charity and protection. Beginning of the 70th most of these courtyards was in a very bad shape, like the rest of the neighborhood. After there restoration they were discovered by artist, students and still some older people with special privileges because of a church membership. Some of the courtyards are closed to the public, and only opened on special days called ‘open monuments days’. But if you do come across one of the entrances, and it is unlocked, most residents won’t mind if you sneak a quiet peek. During the summer some of these yards are opened on Sundays during free concerts called ‘hofjesconcerts’.

Stone tablets
Many houses in the Jordaan have a stone tablet, a stone sign that shows the profession or family sign of the inhabitants. For instance a butcher showed a pig and a tailor a pair of scissors, carved in a stone above the entry. During a walk it’s a pleasure to observe those beautiful, when renovated colorful, antique signs. The first stone tablets are made in the 16th century, when citizens were ordered to use these tablets instead of big wooden gables that obstructed the traffic in these narrow streets.
Museums
Most of the museums in the Jordaan are small. You have the Pianola museum with old mechanical pianos, a literature museum of Theo Thijssen, a houseboat museum, and a fluorescent museum called Electric Lady Land. Just on the boarder of the Jordaan you can find the Anne Frank House on the Prinsengracht (Prince canal).

Aneka Rasa Indonesian Restaurant

The Aneka Rasa is an Indonesian restaurant on the Warmoesstraat in the heart of Amsterdam’s Red Light District. But don’t let that fact put you off your food, some of the best meals in Amsterdam are to be found in this area. Just two blocks from Centraal Station, or three from the Dam Square.

As there were two of us dining, we decided to order a rijstaffel “menu” and enjoyed it greatly for all it’s uniqueness, especially the variety of sauces in each of the many dishes.

We started off with their spring rolls, unusually and delightfully prepared with lime leaf and lemongrass, with bits of chicken and vegetables, they were deep fried to a nice crispiness without being drenched in oil. They were served with a delicious sate sauce.

As we sat in the dining room with our beers admiring the nice wood paneling, the main course arrived with two long heated metal trays down the middle of the table loaded with goodies to eat. There were at least a dozen dishes to choose from, the more memorable are listed below.

Hard boiled eggs, with a dark savoury sauce were in one dish. Another had skewers of chicken satay and a huge puddle of peanut sauce, quite nice and lots of it! There were large portions of rice, both coconut flavoured and stir-fried. A bowl held fresh green beans with a fine zesty sauce and other bits of vegetables and nuts stirred in with it. There was a portion of fried mackerel fish, swimming in it’s own sauce, but that was about the least favorite thing I had. The prawns were great however, with a red spicy pepper sauce, and when sprinkled with finely grated coconut, an amazing treat! A bowl of cabbage and carrots was swimming in some herbal sauce that left me cold, but it was in fact piping hot like all the rest of the dishes. Our most favorite that evening had to be the hot and spicy chicken pieces, with nice chunks of red peppers in its own unique sauce… so it was an evening of many sauces, all unique to say the least.

Afterwards our menu meal featured a dessert with coffee or tea, and fried bananas covered with powdered sugar, a fine way to end the meal. And these weren’t ordinary bananas either, they were the fine red fig variety I love so much when I’m in the tropics, or Amsterdam, and lucky enough to find then in the local market.

Our bill, including four beers, was 61.50 euros. Not bad considering we left the table filled with pleasure!

So, my hats off to the Aneka Rasa, with its great service, fine food, and convenient location.

Restaurant Pisa

I often complain that the Italian restaurants near the Leidseplein all seem the same. Same menu, prices, tacky plastic plants and wall murals. Well at least the Pisa Restaurant ditched the plastic, giving this place a more modern, less dusty feel.

I’ve always enjoyed the lasagnas in Amsterdam, because they are a bit different from what you get in other cities. My guess is that instead of the typical combination of mozzarella and ricotta cheese, you get a richer selection of Dutch cheeses substituting for the traditional Italian cheese. This makes for a delightful change.

So I ordered a vegetarian lasagne and a beer. I was long thru my beer, and had to wait almost a half hour (or so it seemed) for my lasagne, which I guess was made from scratch to order. It was excellent with a variety of vegetables and lots of cheese and a combination of bechamel and tomato sauces. It was so good it was worth the wait, and I ate every bite. My only complaint was they served me a basket of bread just before the lasagne came out. It would’ve been much more welcome 20 minutes earlier when I was ready to eat the table setting! Traditions die hard in these Italian restaurants.

Open from noon until 11 pm daily.

Stadsarchief Amsterdam

Stadsarchief Amsterdam is on the Amsteldijk upriver from the Carre theater, on the other side of the Amstel River.

This is where the official archives of the City of Amsterdam reside, and there are exhibits open to the public, with interpretations in Dutch, of course.

Info:
Stadsarchief Amsterdam is on the Amsteldijk at number 67, 1074 HZ Amsterdam.

Royal Thai

I passed by this inviting place on a cold rainy evening and decided to give it a try. One of the Thai women working there was standing outside the door, as is the custom in this very competitive restaurant district. Business was slow, as this was a Monday and it was pouring rain.

She graciously welcomed me and took my umbrella, saying it was too wet to bring inside! Perhaps she needed it herself, I figured. I sat down and ordered dinner from the menu. Soup was a must to warm my insides, so I decided on Tom Yam Kai, the delightfully spicy lemongrass soup with chicken and mushrooms. It was done perfectly.

As Royal Thai specializes in seafood, I followed that up with Pla Chuchee, pieces of fish, deep fried and covered in a spicy red curry/coconut sauce, which I would classify as Penang (my favorite Thai sauce). There was a LOT of fish, about 6-7 medium pieces, and it was so much I couldn’t finish it. It came with a huge silver colored bowl of rice that I barely made a dent in. The fish was good, clean tasting, and went well with the sauce.

To drink I ordered a jasmine tea, which was served in glass mug instead of teapot, but they did add more hot water, so I got a couple of glasses for 1.90 Euros. A small heineken set me back 3 Euros (big ouch!). The soup was 4.10 and the fish 15.50. Considering how much fish there was, and how good it was, it was well worth it. I’d normally recommend two people split it with another dish.

The decor was a pleasant notch up from most Thai restaurants in Amsterdam. The theme is Thai musical instruments and there are beautiful examples on display as well as other exotic object d’art.

The service here was excellent, but then again, it was a slow Monday evening. As I left the restaurant, the friendly Thai woman handed me back my umbrella and we talked for awhile. The chill of the evening had evaporated…

Check out their very informative website to see the whole menu! Nice photos of some of the dishes. Watch out you don’t drool over your keyboard!

Amsterdam Historical Museum

A visit to Amsterdam should include a visit to this unique museum located near the Dam Square. How can you possibly understand Amsterdam as it is now without a look at it’s fascinating history?

The Amsterdam Historical Museum moved into this building in 1975. It was formerly the municipal orphanage (founded in 1520), and a brief history of the building’s previous existence is told in and around the governors room. An interactive program about the orphanage also contains several old photos.

Exhibits of special Amsterdam historical significance are displayed here at the museum.

Info:
Open daily.

The two museum entrances can be accessed from Kalverstraat 92, Sint Luciënsteeg 27 and Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 357. The museum is a twelve-minute walk from Amsterdam’s Central Station, via Damrak, Dam Square and Kalverstraat. Trams 4, 5, 9, 11, 14, 16, 24 and 25 also go to the museum, stopping at Spui.

The Makro

If you’re one the fortunate few who have a Makro card, you can shop at one of the best stores in Amsterdam. Like its distant cousin, Costco, the Makro specializes in quality goods at wholesale prices. The catch is that you must have a registered business to qualify to shop there. That means a KvK number (Kamer van Koophandel – Chamber of Commerce).

If you can pass that hurdle, you’ll be amazed at what you can buy all in one place, and how marvelous the prices are! The store is divided into two sections. A food store and a department store. You must visit each separately and checkout twice, a real hassle.

The food section has a very good selection of quality wines. After consuming numerous cases I can state unequivocally there were no bad bottles in the bunch. And prices are very good too. Their selection of hard liquor and sweet liquers is likewise good. Unlike the wine, beer and soda is sold here by the case only.

You’ll want to stock up on their canned goods at great prices. Of course just like Costco, you must be prepared to buy by the case. This means you must bring a car to shop here. And you should have enough storage in your Amsterdam flat to put all this stuff! Otherwise go easy on the large items.

Their produce section is good with very high quality the rule. Prices vary, but certain items can be very cheap compared to the supermarkets.

The frozen food section is unsurpassed anywhere! It’s huge! On my last visit I scored 800 grams of 20-29 count shrimp for 12 Euros, and they were really good, too! There’s also fine deals on other seafood and prepared frozen items.

Their bakery and cheese selection is good too. You can easily spend 1-2 hours just in this part of the store.

But hopefully you’ve already visited the dry goods section, because you don’t want to have perishables sitting in your car while you explore the department store which is even larger than the food section!

The department store has household goods, electronics, major appliances, clothes, toys, computer supplies, an excellent selection of glassware, bakeware, cooking items, etc. It’s all spread out on two floors, so be prepared to spend another hour or two exploring this part of the store.

There’s a nice restaurant upstairs if you need a break or to catch a bite while shopping.

Parking can be a nightmare here! Either arrive early, near opening time, or wait for a spot to open, or just hoof it in from the far reaches of the lot.

The worse part of the whole thing is the checkout. They don’t allow you to bring in boxes or bags, so everything must be loaded on to the conveyer belt one item at a time. If you have a lot of wine (like me) this is a big hassle.

Then you must stand in another line so someone can review your register receipt against what’s in your cart (like Costco). But here they count every item. And you stand there praying it matches the total on your receipt.

Hopefully you remembered to bring boxes or bags in your car, otherwise you’ll have to be careful how you load up bottles, produce and other items…

And just when you’ve gotten that put away in your car, you get to come back in and do it all over again on the otherside of the store! What fun!

Oosterpark

The Oosterpark is located on the east side of Amsterdam, in a culturally diverse section of town. Thus it’s a popular venue for cultural activities involving various groups including Surinamese, Indonesians, Indians, Muslims and others.

But anyone can enjoy this beautiful park. I found the design intriguing as the paths lead to sudden viewpoints offering different perspectives on each section of the park.

Another interesting feature of the park are numerous metal sculptures like the one above. One statue honors a sheepdog named Albert, who helped track down 200 fugitives for the Amsterdam Police department. A new monument will be unveiled July 1st, 2002 to commemorate the Slave History of Holland, which brought the ancestors of those who live around the park to the Netherlands.

You can view a variety of birdlife in the ponds at the Oosterpark.

Koninklijk Paleis

Open daily during the summer for tourists, the Royal Palace is not the home of any royalty, it’s a museum and venue for important state events held by the Dutch royals. Recently renovated and spruced up for the wedding of Willem-Alexander and Maxima this place is worth a visit if you haven’t been inside before.

Of note are rooms replete with their period furnishings, carvings, bas-reliefs of bizarre historical notes and artworks left behind when the royals abandoned the place.

Tjin’s Toko

I discovered this little market by chance one day while shopping at the Albert Cuypmarkt. It didn’t look like a grocery store because the front is a take-away Asian place. But once you enter into the main shop (there’s two doors, one for the take-away), you’ll discover a treasure trove of hard-to-find grocery items from countries around the world.

The three very narrow aisles stock a wide range of products that will remind you of home. Or perhaps some exotic place you wish you could be. Like a good selection of Patak’s curry pastes and condiments, soy sauces including light and mushroom flavored, canned hummous and tahini, real hot jalapeño peppers from Mexico (not the mild Old El Paso ones, which they also carry), Betty Crocker cake mixes and frostings, Mrs. Dash salt-free seasonings, Phad Thai noodles, a good selection of beans, chocolate chips (very difficult to find in Holland, despite so much chocolate everywhere), and too much more to mention. You really need to see this place to believe it.

The manager is very good about locating and stocking items that you can’t find. My request for hummous was filled by my next visit!

The biggest drawback to this place is how cramped it is. You can barely work your way down these short aisles before someone tries to squeeze by. And the lack of space doesn’t leave much room for fresh produce, and the selection in the one cooler isn’t much.

Perhaps success will enable them to expand and increase their selection further. While the prices on some items are very reasonable, others like the cake mixes are expensive (7.50 euros is a lot for a mix that’s around $2.50 or less in the states). But if you’re jonesin’ for that special treat to remind you of home, you just might find it here!

I haven’t yet ventured into the take-away yet, but judging by how busy it is, I’d say it’s a good value.

Update: You might want to check the expiration dates on items before you purchase them, as I’ve noticed certain things that don’t sell remaining on the shelves for a very long time.

Phone: 020-671-7708